Kim Dannies: Lifestyle & Adventure writing

A Very Convenient Proof
December 6, 2007

W. C. Fields said "I always cook with wine, sometimes I even add it to the food."

Alcohol is a valuable ingredient in cooking because at low concentrations it trips the release of fruity esters and aroma molecules into the air. As alcohol dissipates during cooking, the unique quality of the spirit or wine lingers, creating enhanced flavor and complexity to a dish. I know this is true– my Margaritaville Marinade without tequila is simply wasted, and a Harvey Wallbanger Cake without Galliano? No thanks.

When I make tomato soup I start with 3 –28 ounce cans of crushed tomatoes. I always add 3 ounces each of vodka and orange juice along with vegetable stock. The orange juice cuts any tin flavor and the vodka rockets the tomatoes. When vodka is added to tomatoes it stimulates the release of flavor molecules that water or fats cannot. In cooking, alcohol is kind of gender confused and acts a little like fat and a little like water. Also, vodka doesn’t have any flavor of its own to impart, so the result is an intensely concentrated tomato flavor. Toss in some caramelized onions deglazed with a bit of sherry and freshly chopped garlic, season and simmer for 30 minutes (the alcohol burns off), and you've got yourself one hummer of a soup.

OK, so have some fun with this, but remember– chef's rule of tongue: one drink while cooking is beautiful, two gets ugly. No lamp shades for toques in the kitchen. Here's a festive holiday dish to get you started:

Drunken Date Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Butterfly 2 pork tenderloins, slicing the length of the pork, three quarters of the way deep. Place plastic wrap over the pork and pound lightly until it lies flat.
In a glass bowl place 1 cup of pitted dates, rough chop. Cover with 4 ounces of sherry (not cooking sherry– get the stuff from the liquor store.) Cover with plastic and micro on HI for 1–2 minutes. Let steep as dates plump up absorbing the sherry.
In a food processor pulse together 4 garlic cloves and the zest of an orange. Pulse in 1 cup shredded Gyuere cheese, 1 cup fresh cranberries, 1 tablespoon each of fresh rosemary and thyme leaves.
Gently mix processed ingredients in with the dates. Mix in 1 cup shelled pistachios and one half teaspoon of powdered clove. Pack evenly onto the 2 flat tenderloins. Season with salt and pepper. Roll up like a jellyroll and tie with butcher string in several spots. Place seam side down in a roasting pan and rub all over with olive oil. Roast at 400 degrees for 35-40 minutes. Remove from oven and tent with foil; rest for 20 minutes. Slice and serve on a bed of wild rice. Serves 6.