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Cold Weather Cooking is Chill
October 25, 2007
There is a definite snap in the air— an open invitation for appetites
to show up red cheeked and ravenous. Contrails of chilled breath are the
cook’s smoke signal to uncork creative juices by serving fresh combinations
of seasonal ingredients. Fall vegetables like cauliflower, butternut squash,
and parsnips are loaded with nutritious vitamins, fiber, and concentrated
sugars just waiting to be caramelized into savory salads, gratins, and
soups. With our precious tomato stash fading, I’m paring apples and
walnuts, peaches and pecans, or pistachios and pears, along with arugula
and baby spinach tossed in a creamy Caesar dressing. Crumbled gorgonzola,
sliced grapes, and toasted pumpkin seeds makes this autumn array the perfect
foil for grilled slices of chicken or beef. Try my savory cauliflower salad
and parsnip puree for more hearty, bistro—style food that is definitely
chill.
Savory Roasted Salad
Heat oven to 400 degrees. Rinse
and separate the floret ‘trees’ of
2 heads of cauliflower so the tops measure the size of a quarter. Place
florets in a glass bowl and zap in microwave for 4 minutes on high. Toss
cauliflower with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 2 large pinches of kosher
salt. Turn on to a parchment covered cookie sheet. Roast for 40 minutes,
tossing occasionally until glistening brown. Place in a serving bowl
with 12 ounces of fresh baby spinach leaves; 6 ounces of lightly steamed
broccoli rabe; 2 ounces of shaved Parmesan cheese, and 3 tablespoons
cooked chopped bacon. (For outstanding flavor, try Vermont’s Smoke & Cure
thick cut brand). Cover dish and set for 5 minutes. Toss with freshly
ground black pepper. Cook’s note: chunks of butternut squash may
be substituted or combined with the cauliflower. Serves 4—8.
Parsnip Puree & Seared Scallops
Parsnips: peel and cut 3 pounds of parsnips into chunks. Boil in salted
water, along with 4 garlic cloves, until soft enough to mash (about
25 minutes.) Drain and mash. Add 2 tablespoons of melted unsalted
butter and enough 1% milk to whip the parsnips into a creamy state
using electric beaters. Season with kosher salt to taste. Keep warm.
Sauce: In a saucepan combine one—half cup white wine; 3 tablespoons
white vinegar; 3 tablespoons chopped shallots; 1 tablespoon chopped garlic;
2 tablespoons of freshly chopped rosemary leaves. Cook until reduced
to about 2 tablespoons of liquid. Turn heat to low, let mixture
cool a minute. Add one—half cup of creme fraiche. Whisk until melted,
then whisk in 4 ounces of unsalted butter, in chunks, and 2 tablespoons
fresh lemon juice. Cover and keep warm without direct heat.
Scallops: Coat 12 large scallops with salt and pepper. Sear in a hot
pan heated with a little olive oil, 3 minutes per side. Plate 4 servings
of the puree. Place 3 scallops on each plate of puree. Drizzle sauce
over each plate. Serves 4.
Kim Dannies is a graduate of La Varenne Cooking School in France. She lives in Williston, VT with her husband, Jeff, and three college–aged daughters who come and go. ©2008
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