Kim Dannies: Lifestyle & Adventure writing

"Olive", The Other Reindeer
December 22, 2005

Is your kitchen beginning to buzz with hungry people seeking traditional holiday treats? I love chaos in the kitchen at Christmas and the food memories it sparks- it is the stuff of family legend. One of ours started in 1995 when, on the smug authority of a 5-year old, our Quinn announced that “Olive” was Santa’s ninth reindeer (the one who used and laugh and call Rudolph names.) Pandemonium erupted as her big sisters shrieked and ran through the kitchen in disbelief that she could be so dumb. I was in awe that Quinn had come up with such an astute observation; it was one of those mother’s moments I never want to forget. To help me preserve that precious memory I make the olive spread, Tapenade, every single holiday season.

Tapenade is a thick paste made from pitted olives, capers, anchovies, olive oil and garlic. (If you don’t like anchovies or capers leave them out, you’ll love the results anyway.) Tapenade can be made from green or black olives and is fabulous spread simply on a piece of toasted baguette. It really shines when dolloped over grilled meats, fish, or pasta and veggies for a quick dinner sauce.

I recently saw a cool hors d’oeuvre tray featuring tiny pools of Tapenade perched on slices of peeled English cucumber and half slices of hard boiled eggs- it was a beautiful and refreshing presentation, not to mention easy and healthful. For a memorable lunch, smear it on great bread for a cold meat sandwich of salami or Procuitto paired with greens and tomato slices.

I used to pit my own olives for Tapenade, which was a pain, but now it is so easy with the wonderful selection of pitted olives at the supermarket olive station. One 16-ounce container will yield a cup of Tapenade. Because it is rich, it goes far. But beware, this stuff with a nice glass of wine may create pandemonium in your kitchen, it’s that good.

As we gather our extended families together this week to get reacquainted, to bump and jostle in the kitchen, and to create new food memories, remember the legend of Olive- for she is the spirit of the holidays, and she is everywhere.

Tapenade (TA-puh-nahd)
In a food processor combine a 16-ounce container of pitted green or black olives, 2 tablespoons of capers, 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, 4 garlic cloves, and 4 slivers of canned anchovy. Pulse the mixture until a rough paste forms. (Add more olive oil for smoother paste.) Season the paste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste. Store in the fridge covered, use within 3 days.