A Bittersweet Season
October 27, 2005

A huge wall of bittersweet vine cascades into my garden like a waterfall. The yellow and green leaves mingle brilliantly with the orange berries to signal the turn of another Vermont season. The bittersweet vine is an eloquent symbol of how I feel about this time of year, about this time of life. I hate to see the days getting shorter and colder, yet I love to ski. I miss my children going away to school, yet I am pleased for their progress. I’m heartbroken to see my darling 85 year old mother-in-law ill and fading, yet I know she has led a remarkable life.

The palate signals the stomach during this season of change, too, demanding more aromatic contrasts. Food needs to be a little heartier, the flavors a bit more intense. I cooked this autumn-themed meal for my extended family last week; the menu was a nice bridge into cold weather eating: the food filled our bellies with what we craved while it comforted our bittersweet hearts.

Sweet and Tart Red Cabbage
Heat oven to 400 degrees. In an oven-proof casserole melt 4 ounces of butter on medium heat. Add 1 large onion, finely chopped; 2 cloves of minced garlic; 3 tablespoons of sugar and simmer for 5 minutes. Add 1 cup vegetable stock, one-half cup red wine, one fourth cup honey, and 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Add 1 medium head of thinly sliced red cabbage (10 cups). Combine well and place in oven, cook for 45-60 minutes. Serves 6.

Pork Tenderloin with Spicy Fig Sauce
2-1 pound (plus) pork tenderloins, kosher salt, one fourth cup olive oil. Dry and salt the pork. Place a large cast iron pan (or oven-proof sauté pan) on the stove, heat on high. Add the olive oil, when it is sizzling, sear the pork, turning on each of the four sides with tongs until meat is nicely browned, about 2 minutes per side. Sprinkle in some baby red potatoes, cut in half, around the meat and place the pan in 400 degree oven to roast for 25 minutes. Remove and tent with foil for 10 minutes. Serves 6.

Fig Sauce: Heat an 8 ounce jar of fig preserves in the microwave for 45 seconds on hi. Carefully pour contents into a mixing bowl and add 2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce, 4 minced garlic cloves and one half teaspoon of red pepper flakes. Whisk and adjust for taste using small increments of brown sugar and pepper: the sauce should be sweet and hot. Simmer sauce 10 minutes; serve over sliced pork.

Dessert: Simple Bittersweet Chocolate Soufflé

Kim Dannies is a graduate of La Varenne Cooking School in France. She lives in Williston, VT with her husband, Jeff, and three college–aged daughters who come and go. ©2008